Fairytale to the key is permanently stained,

Fairytale
and Charles Perrault

A
French folktale,
‘The Bluebeard’ (see Figure 6), was first written
down by the famous French author Charles Perrault (see Figure7) who regarded
as the father of the fairytale (T .Evans, 1805). The story talks about a
young woman marries a rich blue-bearded (see Figure 8) widower who also
notorious for his cruelty. He forbids her from
enters the lock chamber, proclaiming that disobedience can put her at
risk or even death. Like those before her the
defiant wife enters the room (see Figure 9 & Figure 10). Discover the gruesome scene which there his murdered
predecessors (see Figure 11). Frightened, she drops the key into a pool of
blood. Due to the key is permanently stained, Bluebeard finds out her noncompliance
(see Figure 12). He is about to kill her, but she is narrowly escapes his
clutches in a nick of time (see Figure 13). The brothers of the wife and her
sister arrive and execute Bluebeard (see Figure 14). Eventually his wife
inherits his fortune and castle (Heta Pyrhönen, 2010).

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King Henry VIII and ‘The Bluebeard’

 Henry VIII was the King of England during 16th
century (see Figure 11).  He was the second Tudor monarch and popular for his six
marriages. Generally, it was believed that the behavior of the Bluebeard
killing his wife was greatly inspired by the King Henry VIII’s marriages. Although
Henry Tudor was based on England, the story of him and his six wives was much
well-known in French as in England (Casie E. Hermansson, 2009).
It can help to gain more interesting inspiration for the collection through the
fashion costume and accessories of the era by utilizing the blueprint to
determine the background of the story.

 

 

Greatest story
collectors the Brothers Grimm

In the early 19th
century, the Brothers Grimm (see Figure) began to collect the folk tales. In
fact, the intention of the Grimms is to preserve the stories and morals that emanated naturally from the German people. As
their stories were in an oral tradition and it could easily oblivion. The
stories in their first edition Kinder- und Hausmärchen (Children and Household Tales)
(see Figure) which published in two volumes in 1812 and 1815 are often brutal
and bloody (Zipes,J,
2015). Following the step of
Charles Perrault ‘The Bluebeard’ was rewritten for the first edition by the
Grimms of Grimm’s Fairytales. However it subsequently eliminated from the later
due to the large proportions of French origin in the story (Maria Tatar, 2003).

Looking in to another version of ‘The Bluebeard’ which formulated
by the Grimms , it had mentioned about a basin that used to collect the blood
and was found in the Bluebeard’s château (royal or lordly dwelling usually
located in the countryside). Through the use of blood for bathing, the
Bluebeard believes that this motive can cure his blue beard (Winfried
Menninghaus, 1999). Social
discrimination of the minority has become a flashpoint for Blue Beard to open
homicides. Without discrimination, the Bluebeard and his first bride could have
a happy ending which different from origins. In
terms of concept, the moral and virtues of ‘The Bluebeard’ give a strong
contribute to the collection. Instead of just being a fashion item, the
collection also bring out the message which the world should learn more to accept
different aspect of beauty.

 

 

 

An industry embellished by fairy tales.

            Fashion
is one of the inseparable object presences with fairy tale. No matter in what
era, the fashion industry will always have a designer to bring the dream come
true. Used fairy tale as the inspiration to embellish their designs and released
one of the opulent collection to the world.

Fairytale
is trendier than ever before. In recent seasons many luxury brands have
obtained much applause for their elevated take on folkloric aesthetic, like the
Valentino Pre-Fall 2013 collection (see Figure 15 & Figure 16). Furthermore, in the autumn and
winter 2014 collection, Dolce & Gabbana used “Enchanted Sicily” as the inspiration
which borrowed from the Brothers
Grimm (see Figure 17 & Figure 18). All the familiar
fairy-tale elements such as capes, hoods and peasant dresses were peppered
throughout the whole collection to infuse a very creative visual effect. Creative
design with a seductive Fairy Tale theme certainly resonates right now (Rebecca
Gonsalves, 2014).

Popular culture has also a large part to play, bringing all the
tales to life is also the hot topics in this few seasons (see Appendices 1).
All the classic fairy tales have been presented in real life in
the big screen, and made the vintage and bold Renaissance fashion style return
again to the fashion mainstream in this 21st century.
See the recent season runway show of Gucci or Dolce and Gabbana, is not
difficult to find out that the fashion runways have been certainly infused by
the retro elements like the puffy sleeve, ruffles, laces and others (see Figure
19 & Figure 20).

 

 

Inspiration
from ‘The Bluebeard’

Garment plays a compelling role in
fairy tales, filled with magical powers; represent vanity or wealth of
particular characters. Fairy tales usually only provide some plots, in addition
to what the plot needs, clothing and accessories are often vivid description of
the genre to enhance the overall sense. Therefore the very first step to
develop the design is looking into the clothing and accessories of each
character. As it turns out, King Henry VIII and his daughter Elizabeth I (see
Figure 21) were the most influential people of Renaissance fashion. Likewise the Tudor monarchs of England (see Figure 23) had probably
the most significant impact on Western European fashions of the 16th century (Peter
Ackroyd, 2013).

In the Renaissance era, there were a lot of
iconic fashion features and elements which were also imbued in the story such as
puffy sleeve and square neckline will be use it as the inspiration of the silhouette
and structure to create a vintage look for the collection (see Figure 24).
Dates back to the 16th century, the materials and grandness of clothing varied greatly between the classes due to the sumptuary laws (Paige L. Hanson, 2010). For example, during that
time a mid-class woman would dress a much looser corset and with some
accessories such as waist bag. Whereas it could also found on the last wife in
the tale (see Figure 25). The intended was to make more convenient for their
daily routine and movement. Bringing out the clever yet rebellious behavior of
the last wife, the waist bag was able to fully represented how the defiant
wife’s identity act as the inspiration for the design of trousers in this
collection (see Figure 26).

 

The climax of ‘The Bluebeard’ story is the moment when
his last wife opened the Forbidden Room and found out all the murdered
predecessors were hanging inside the room (see Figure 10).  This scenario provides greater inspiration to
the collection. Applying the Tudor arch shape (see Figure) design panel and
decorate with the ruffle details around the edge (see Figure 27) into
the design to greatly representing the Forbidden room (see Figure 28). By adding
the ruffle details around the edge as to response the ideal of this collection
that had mentioned earlier. If the world is more willing to use tolerance
instead of discrimination, the dark forbidden chamber in the Bluebeard
castle will never exist.

Lastly, the “key” with permanent stained (see
Figure 29) is also another interesting point as an inspiration to develop more
unique texture for the design. Trying to play with the pigment, using different
shade of red colors to paint it on top of the fabric to create the effect as to
bring the “key” with permanent stained to life. Might exploit the texture
to the back of the long jacket or on top of the mini dress on the collection to
make the retro design looks even more startling and unique (see Figure &
Figure).

 

 

 

 

 

 

The
Aesthetic of outré

The
final collection will be named as ‘The aesthetic of outré’ and released at 2019 spring and summer season.
Outré is to be outrageous, unusual and perhaps a
touch bizarre. Named this collection as ‘The
aesthetic of outré’ does not mean that the appeal design of this collection
will be highly unconventional, in contrast, it is to encourage or remind the
customer to appreciate all different kind of beauty even it is a bit odd. In
this collection, all 6 designs will cover from sleeveless top to a long
jacket; mini dress to a loose trouser (see Figure 2).

In order to reduce the immature of the garment which bring
out by the youthful silhouette design, added the chalky quality retro pestle
colors (see Figure 4) to this collection can help to find a balance between
maturity and eccentric. Not just the colors trend of spring and summer of 2019 (Jane
Bodd, 2017), the mid-tones retro pastel colors have also created a very vintage
appeal for the garment which is totally suitable with the theme.

The choice of fabric for this collection will be more
concerned in the materials and textiles trend
of SS2019. According to the trend forecasting, a return to simplicity and rusticity
is the key for the spring and summer seasons of 2019 (Helen
Palmer &Julia Skliarova, 2017). 
For this reason, the final fabric choice of the collection will be
cotton or linen with a super-matte quality and combine with others fabric like
jersey, satin and sheer chiffon to make the surface of the garment will not be
so monotonous (see Figure 5).

All
designs will combine both Renaissance outline silhouette and dusty color tone of
fabric to create a slightly dark fairy tale mood which have also obviously show
it in the mood board (see Figure). In that case, people who need to dress more
steadily and mature in their daily life or in the workplace but often looking to stand out from the crowd will
be drawn to this series of designs (see Figure).

In the end, even if it does not have a great impact this
collection will still bring a little progress for the world. The virtue which
unfolded from ‘The Bluebeard’ should be instilling
from one generation to the next, and let the world
know that after  putting aside prejudice,
everything will be as beautiful as epic.